Travelin’ Kids

w_china_journal
In the same days that Eric and Alison are getting all the mention, traveling west by train across China, Brian and Sadie are driving west across another continent; North America.

w_brian_n_sadie_trip

Brian’s Camry sat, virtually idle in Montpellier, France for six years, just waiting for this occasion. They set out from Belfast, Maine on Monday and spent the first night in Pennsylvania. Tuesday, they visited the Hale homestead in Lancaster, Ohio. Wednesday took them to Albia, Iowa, just south of Des Moines. Thursday, they crossed Nebraska and ventured into Wyoming, spending the night in Laramie,  a town well known from cowboy movies. Today, they’re on the homestretch to Reno.

w_e+b_ca1973

Who knew these guys, in a late September week of 2009 would be spanning two continents on opposite sides of the world?

Meanwhile, I have another three-part text message from China to share.

Fri Sep 25 8:02am
Almost 7am and still a ways 2 go in Gansu province (!) just past Jiayuguan. Due in Turpan around 2pm, but train was rnng an hour late ystdy so …
Al here. Train is fun. Scenery is spectacular. Sunrise in desert, now. Our roommate 56 yr o male teacher lives Shanghai, very nice. His colleagues uighur, like 2 sing.
Adventure!. Shaanxi gansu border amazingly beautiful, rivers – mts @ sunset.

Notes from the Train

Carol is there in her dreams...
Carol is there in her dreams...

email from Alison September 22, 2009 7:44:48 PM PDT:
Eric and I are packing for our 6 day train trip to northwestern China. We’ve heard from fellow travelers we’ve met (who have loved the trip) that internet connectivity does not exist where we are traveling, and even cell phone is iff-y. So we will not be sending or receiving email from today through Tues. Sept 29.

We fly home from Shanghai to Boston on Wed. Oct. 1. We’ll be back in touch then.
Just wanted to let you know, if you wondered why blog posts and e-communications have stopped.

Brian, we’re thinking of you as you make your way across one continent, and we cross another.

We’re really enjoying the trip. Eric Lee is just off to Beijing, so we parted ways and we subway to the train this afternoon. 2300 mile train journey west.

That’s it for now.

Text message from Eric Wed Sep 23 4:18pm:
Good morning. We just woke up somewhere in Henan province & I am about 2 eat a bowl of inst noodle soup. It is very cloudy. –er

Wed Sep 23 8:03pm
About 2 x into Shaanxi province. Beautiful hills. We’re supposed 2 b in Xi’an at 12:15pm.

Thu Sep 24 1:36am
Just entered Gansu province; the mountains and valleys are spectacular.

[Editors note: Gansu is a long California-sized province that separates Mongolia (on the east) from Xinjiang. We entered Gansu at the southern edge and traveled 3/4 of the way north which took us 18 hours of continuous train travel, mostly overnight. That is why our communication ends here — we didn’t try to TXT until the next morning, by which time we had entered the “communications bubble” of Xinjiang where mobile phones could only communicate with others inside the province, but not outside the bubble.]

Madame X Revealed

mrsxrevealedMany of you have asked us: who is this Mrs. X and why is she her name and image obscured?

It’s actually less romantic than many of you have speculated: we felt as though we should protect her privacy on the Internet while at the same time telling her fascinating story. Although for all we know she has blogged it all under her real name at MrsXsite.com…we, however, didn’t feel it would be appropriate for us to do that, especially without asking her permission, and by the time we decided to blog about this experience, she was on a plane back to the States.
Continue reading “Madame X Revealed”

Monday Memories

Shanghai lane
Shanghai lane

It’s a rainy Monday in Shanghai. We were lucky to get invited on a special tour by our friend Patrick, a tour of historic Shanghai that Patrick built around the life story of Mrs. X, who is our fellow traveler for the day. She is an American citizen of Russian descent who was born in Shanghai in 1940. Patrick led us to the buildings where she lived as a child, the private french school she attended, and other important historic landmarks. It was a fascinating day, made vibrant by Patrick’s extensive knowledge of Shanghai history and Mrs. X herself telling us memories of her childhood.

So much of Shanghai has changed in the past 60 years; Mrs. X was a 10 year old girl when her family fled Shanghai in 1949.

Patrick and the Seven No's
Patrick and the Seven No’s

Eric and Eric and I ended the day with a delicious hot pot dinner at a neighborhood spot.

Hot Pot dinner,  Two Erics
Hot Pot dinner, Two Erics

Pajama Madness

Sunday night Eric Lee insisted that we take him to the Sichuan restaurant that we had been raving about, so we did. We got the TUB of fish soup again, plus two new dishes: a stirfried tofu and pork dish, plus a wilted lettuce dish. Neither were as hot as the Sichuan green beans had been the previous night, but they were still nice and spicy and really delicious. I thought the tofu dish was especially good as it was stir-fried in chili oil and spices together with great big slices of pork belly (with the skin on) which kind of looked like the slices of tofu, but definitely did not taste like tofu. Even with three people, we still couldn’t finish the fish soup. The same young man waited on us, although he seemed preoccupied with his cell phone, so his younger sister ended up doing most of the work and was much more attentive. The check came to 101 yuan (about $15 for the three dishes and three bottles of beer), and we tried to tip the sister 10 yuan (about $1.40), and she absolutely positively would have nothing to do with that. We could NOT give her a tip. Period.

pj_ab2pj_er2After we left the restaurant, Eric headed to the apartment while Alison and I doubled back to a clothing store we’d passed on our way to the restaurant because we’d seen that they had pajamas on display, and we wanted to buy some pajamas. Why buy pajamas? Apparently Shanghai and the Shanghailanders are famous for wearing pajamas all the time, including out on the street during the day. Plus we will be spending two nights on a train in the next few days, and it seemed appropriate to have some pajamas available to slip into for the ride.

Sure enough, the place was still open, and they had exactly the kind of pajamas we were looking for — the kind meant for locals, not the kind meant for tourists. However, the saleswoman took one look at me and shook her head when we held up the style I liked. She turned to the stacks of extra stock and found what she was looking for: the same style, but she held up the label and said, very slowly while pointing to the size: “Extra Extra Large!” I didn’t know that I was a giant, but I guess I am.

Alison did not have to get a giant size, and now we are very happy with our new pajamas, especially mine because in addition to having a very domestic design, they also exhibit the nonsense English phrases that are common on t-shirts all around the city.

hapear

Shanghai Sunday

sun_am

We had known all along that we would join an architecture tour of the French Concession on Sunday morning, but it didn’t start until 10am so we got to spend a lazy few hours before hand eating the remainder of the melon Alison bought on Thursday, reading guide books, discussing possibilities for the afternoon, and enjoying the light gathering outside our windows.

The trip was organized by and a benefit for the Historic Shanghai association and would be led by our friend Patrick. There was such a crowd, however, that we split into two with Tina leading the second group (where we wound up). The first thing we looked at was a manhole cover with french words stamped into it — apparently a good bit of the original infrastructure still exists and is functional. The most distinctive architecture that remains from pre-1949 are some exceptional art deco houses and buildings, and Tina provided loads of stories about the architects that designed them, the families that paid for them and lived in them, and the current uses the People’s government has assigned to them.

lebronAfter the two hour tour, Eric split for a pre-arranged brunch with friends-of-friends, and Alison and I returned to the apartment to rest our feet for a bit. Then Alison left to join Eric for some art exploration, and I took off on some reconnaissance of my own. We agreed to meet on Nanxing Rd. (linking The Bund with the People’s Square), which has been transformed into a M E G A glitzy pedestrian mall at dusk. That was crazy: millions of blinking lights around hundreds of decorated store windows; loud audio “demonstrations” urging us to admire their products; thousands of people walking up and down the road along with many people aggressively wanting to hook you up with a good fake Rolex, or some fake Samsonite luggage, or something else fake of your choice. Instead of pulling up their sleeve to display ten watches, they all carried what amounted to a catalog of fake luxury items on a double-sided full color brochure. “You want a nice watch? Good price!” Whereupon they pointed to a watch among fifteen other items on the catalog page. Every sales person had the same catalog page — even the ones hanging out across town in front of the park near our apartment. I assume that they front for a store, and should we be interested, they would drag us back to the store whereupon they collect a commission, either when we arrive or when we buy something. I never did test my assumption.

Instead we walked along with everyone else, drifting through the commercial haze like tiny motes of dust in the path of a spotlight.

nanjing_rd1

nanjingrd2

nanjingrd3

nanjingrd4

Ring-A-Ding-A-Pudong

87th Floor of the Shanghai Financial Center building looking down on the top of the Jinmao Building
87th Floor of the Shanghai Financial Center building looking down on the top of the Jinmao Building

After dumplings and an interesting visit to a suit maker (Eric Lee is in the market for something custom), we decided we had just enough time to hop on the Metro and see Pudong. Nominally that’s the entire east side of the river, but it essentially refers to the knob of shoreline across from The Bund that’s sprouting skyscrapers like mushrooms in Maine this past summer.

peoples_sq_stn

Metro Line 1 to Metro Line 2 through the People’s Square station (flowing in an absolute river of humanity), then just two stops on Metro Line 2 and you emerge in a construction site surrounded by a forest of skyscrapers.

pudong_weldersYou are also surrounded by construction walls (inevitably covered in posters for “Expo 2010”, usually featuring (besides their doughy mascot) the faces of Yao Ming, Lang Lang (pianist), and a third guy who I think is a race car driver), around which you must navigate through a maze of detours and construction equipment to get to a street or a building, much less find a news stand or a food store (good luck). This neighborhood is all about glass and steel, and the people on the street are here to see that and have their pictures taken in front of it, or possibly to work in it, but they’re not here to live, at least not to live lives we would recognize.
Continue reading “Ring-A-Ding-A-Pudong”